Under a starry sky

Our overnight train brings us to Jaisalmer, a desert town in the westernmost corner of the state of Rajasthan.  A giant fort rises out of the Thar desert with a town at it's golden walls, the 'golden city' of India.  The history is full of defending it's kingdom and creating a trade route between Delhi and Central Asia.  The fort still actively houses families as it has served for 900 years.  Very impressive one can and has gotten lost inside all the turns and walkways inside.

We are picked up at the train by Shahrukh who owns a guesthouse in the town, outside the fort gates, I'm sure we'll still be safe.  It is called Artists Lodge named for the colony of artists his family is from.  We are treated to traditional music that evening sitting rooftop to a private show.  Three artists perform for us including a young boy with the most amazing voice and intense energy.  Our camel adventure begins in the morning and we are very excited.

A jeep picks us up in the morning and delivers us out of town to our camels.  There are three guides and camels each for us and two others who join us.  Missy's camel is Julian, Kim's Mr. Aloo and mine Mr. John.  Julian is a calm camel, quite lovely and Kim's is a large male who really wants a girl camel close and keeps blowing his tongue out into a large bubble, super gross.  Early on I realize I have drawn the short straw, Mr. John has a bit of an attitude and woud prefer a different vocation I am sure.

The camels are loaded with supplies and we hop on, leaning back and hanging on tight as the camels is told to stand.  The camels gait is quite dramatic and one has to roll with it but feels comfy enough.  Off we go into the desert.

It's an absolute gorgeous experience, the scenery is amazing, the guides full of information, constantly rhyming and singing and the camels pretty cool.  A fighter jet flies over quite low at one point giving us a surreal moment and reminding us exactly where we are as the Indian army patrols the Pakistan border constantly.  We stop for lunch cooked over a fire, Kim helps with prep and we eat a traditional fresh veggie meal cooked with cumin, curry and spicy sauces, peppers, onion and garlic, paired with fresh made chipati.  Back on the camels we ride into the sunset into the dunes proper. 

A couple of fires are lit and we romp around on the dunes while dinner is prepped.  I try my hand at making chipatis, not as easy as it looks and I'm not all that successful as each one I make is corrected.  After dinner we chill around the fire listening to songs and stories.  We are invited back in late February for the Desert Festival when thousands gather with their camels and compete on many levels such as camel polo, camel decoration, turban tying and Mr. Desert which maybe we could judge?

Under the starry sky our bedrolls are laid out and off to bed we go.  One blanket on the sand and five on top, as I lie down I can feel the sand is still warm from the day even though the night air is very cold and brisk.  Bring your shoes with you we are told... gypsies may come.  Ok then.  Falling asleep looking at a huge open sky with bright stars above is perfection.  I am very content in this Thar desert and am sad to leave tomorrow but this moment I will remember forever.