Tet has finally come and gone, it definitely is the holiday that never ends. Officially it started January 30th (I think) but for like a week before hand there was tons of work and preparations going on. Along with kids in a giant dragon costume drumming their way through the streets raising money, the island was quite busy. Tet is basically like every western holiday and birthdays rolled into one giant party.
I loved walking along the road and watching all the scooters driving by from the market laden with pots of marigolds heading home or to the hotels for decoration. It was very emphasized that we join our hotel family for Tet but were not expecting the extravagance of generosity! We arrived home later then expected but still on time for the party. Ushered to a seat by the owner and immediatly handed two beer that would never be allowed to be empty. Everyone staying at the hotel and all the staff ate and drank till they were stuffed. Then as midnight approached we were all ushered up the owners temple (yes he has an actual temple on the property) where insense was lit and he rang in the new year with first a giant bell and then a giant drum. Loud! Then we got to try and make noise, the bell is awesome... you big you need large mallet to ring it. After we rang in the new year ee were all ushered back to the common area handed more beer and told the owner would be back in ten minutes as he was going for a walk around the property. Now you have to understand the Vietnamese are very superstitious and it is believed that the first person to walk through the doorway of a property will denote the luck of the year to come. Bad person equals shitty year, good person equals lucky year. Rather then take the chance it is quite common for the owner to exit their house at midnight and then go back in. When the owner of our place was done with his rounds we ate and drank some more and sang into the night. Um, morning actually, I think it was about 5 am before I was able to sneak away. Tons of fun!
The next day we gave the owner lucky money. One can purchase these little red envelopes from the market into which you put money and then give it away. It doesn't matter the quantity only that the number is condidered lucky. Five is definitely lucky so we chose 50 000 dong (combined with hanging out till 5 am and this lucky money would prove to make us favorites later). He was super happy with our gift and quite surprised I think. As we wandered around for the next few days it was cool to see everyone sporting new clothes from Tet, the kids all bought one size too big as they will be wearing it for the next year.
The celebrations carry on for over a week. The dragon and drumming continues, lucky money, lucky cake (sticky rice roll) and the generosity. We got invited to lunch one day which was delucious and more food then anyone actually needs. The idea is if they can serve more then is needed it shows how well off they are... it is never possible to finish anything, more will come. We also got invited for a bbq dinner by Laap who delivers ice and is fast becoming a good friend. We met him through Dan and Lana from Vernon who have been coming to the island for eight years for months at a time. The four of us arrived at Laap's house to discover him and his wife Tweet dressed in their best setting a fully decked out table complete with wine glasses and his son Tho busy at the bbq. For the rest of the evening we were wined and dined (although we did bring our own beer).
First course was Vietnamese ceviche. A small fish (like sardine size) had been cut in half and mixed with onions and lime juice. Then the fish was rolled up in rice paper with greens and shredded coconut and dipped in a delicious spicy peanut sauce. It is also just eaten in a salad when rolling it up gets to be too much effort.
Second course arrives and never stops arriving as Tho gives us the scallops he been so attentively bbqing. Cooked to perfection with green onions and peanuts with a little dollup of spicy mayo on top. Incredible! I am in heaven, these are my absolute favorite.
Third course is bbq wizardry. Spicy sqiud cooked so the tentacles and outside a little crispy but the meat is still tender and cooked perfectly. Mmm.
Now you must know, the first and second course don't ever really stop. The whole time there is lots of laughing and drinking with minimal English (Tho being the best at English but busy outside). But we understand eachother enough to enjoy ourselves and for Tweet to understand that Kim and I are a married couple. With this new information she and her sister are quite pleased and immediately start yet another cheers. Once everyone is full Tweet prepares a fruit plate of watermelon and jack fruit for dessert. By this point our numbers have tripled as there are now many curious children in the house playing games and dancing. I am stuffed to my eyes and Kim and Lana are left a tad hungry as even though they are full of smiles they have been handing me all of their seafood and just eating lettuce wraps. We say our good byes and get scootered (much to Kims horror) to the main road by Tweet and her sister so we can catch a cab. It is an evening of genuine fun and generosity that I will never forget.
And now there is no more drumming, shops are open again and the ATMs have been restocked. Back to the calm peaceful island life which we still have one week to enjoy. Ahhh. Happy New Year everyone, I wish you all much luck and love.
